Yu Shan 玉山 (Jade Mountain), Taiwan. 3952 m
Date Climbed: 14th of Dec. 2018
Route: Shangdongpu carpark-Tataka saddle-Yushan trail
Starting elevation: 2580 m
Elevation gain (loss): +1525 m, (-150 m)
Hike distance (one way): 14.1 km
0352 hrs. Started from Shangdongpu (上东埔) carpark.
0435 hrs. Reached Tataka saddle/Yushan trailhead (玉山登山口).
0808 hrs. Reached Paiyun lodge (排雲山莊).
0830 hrs. Set off from Paiyun lodge
1057 hrs. Reached Summit of Yushan.
1121 hrs. Started descend from summit.
1237 hrs. Reached Paiyun lodge (排雲山莊).
1257 hrs. Left Paiyun lodge.
1602 hrs. Reached Tataka saddle/Yushan trailhead (玉山登山口).
The Yushan climb was planned (yes, you need to seriously plan. See below under the "RED TAPE" section) as a short side trip before I proceed to Taipei to attend a conference. The plan was to arrive in Taiwan on Thursday morning (13th Dec), drive to the mountain, climb and descend Yushan on Friday (14th Dec), and make my way on Saturday (15th Dec) back to Taipei, plus some sightseeing along the way.
After picking up my rental car near Taoyuan Airport, I drove all the way to Yushan National Park. I arrived after sundown, at about 1730hrs. After having a good hotpot dinner at the Leopard restaurant (雲豹餐廳) at the Tataka visitor centre, I checked in at the Dongpu lodge (东埔山莊). The lodge has basic amenities, with bunks that can pack 30-40 people each.
It could have been very noisy and cramped, but luckily, it was not full, and the bunk that I was in had only a few people. I managed to catch a few hours of sleep although I was nursing a pretty bad cough and running nose.
I chit chatted with the people around. Most of the people were planning on a two-day hike, or on multi-day, multi-peak hikes. I was asked on a couple of occasions if I was doing 單攻, which Iiterally translates as "Solo/single attack", which I originally thought meant "climbing the mountain by myself". Eventually I understood it as a slang that means summiting the mountain in one day. I somehow feel a bit wary of the usage of 攻 (attack) for the mountain climbing endeavour as it sounds overly aggressive, and I worry that the mountain may not take it kindly.
I woke up at about 0230 hrs, had a quick breakfast, and drove to the Shangdongpu carpark where I started my hike at 0352 hrs. It was a ~3 km walk along the service road (restricted access) to the Tataka saddle, where the Yushan trailhead begins at ~2600 m elevation. To Paiyun lodge at 3403 m, it was a gradual but long ascent over a distance of 8.5 km. The trail is well marked and well maintained, with much wooden plank pavements over the more uneven or exposed area. Along the way, there are markers at every 0.5 km to pace your tempo. It was a brilliant clear day with calm wind and dawn brings about a verdant mountain and valley scenery. Many a time, I stopped to catch my breathe, and took in the total silence, no bird chirps, no gentle whispery wind. Just the quiet mountain majesty.
I was pretty exhausted by the time I reached Paiyun lodge at 0808hrs. The diligent park official cum lodge caretaker was there to check my permits and passport.
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| On the way to the summit, looking back to Paiyun Lodge. |
Took a quick rest, and was on my way again by 0830 hrs. Soon, i crossed path with huge groups of hikers descending. From Paiyun to the summit, it is 2.4 km of relatively steep uphill climb. Half of the way is above the treeline and offers great views of the valley where 旗山溪 flows. It is also on the slope of this valley where the Yushan trail comes in by.
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| Views back towards Tataka, of the valley where 旗山溪 flows through. |
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| The trail near the summit. |
I reached the summit a few minutes before 11 am, and there were four other people on the top. I collapsed onto the side of the summit marker to take some desperate rest. By this time some clouds have moved in amidst the lower peaks. The slowly moving fluffy cloud in stark contrast with the dark peaks made for a majestic sight. The many subsidiary peaks of Yushan surrounds the main peak, as Yushan main peak lords over the whole majestic landscape around.
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| The mandatory selfie on the summit. |
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| View of the East peak of Yushan, 玉山東峰. |
I left the summit at 1121 hrs, and reached Paiyun Lodge by 1237 hrs. Had a quick lunch of a couple of onigiri bought from some convenience store the day before. They make great hiking food and I always pack them when i go hiking in Taiwan, Japan or South Korea. 1257 hrs, time to get going. By then, my left knee was hurting, and the 8.5 km walk back seemed really daunting.
The trail hugs the slope of a steep valley that leads into Yushan from Tataka. Across the valley, occasionally, you see slim waterfalls, amidst the Taiwanese hemlock trees and the fleeting threads of fog and cloud.
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| Well maintained trail. With wooden planks lined over the more exposed parts of the trail. |
Along the way, looking out for the next 0.5 km marker kept me motivated to move on.
I finally reached the Yushan trailhead just past 4 pm. It was a great relief that I did not have to walk the extra 3 km out to the car park. There is minivan shuttle services (TWD 100 per pax) during the day time (till 5 pm). Already there waiting for the minibus was a group of hikers who completed a 3D2N hike taking in the main peak plus all the subsidiary peaks of Yushan. Kudos!
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| At Yushan trailhead at Tataka Saddle, waiting for the minibus shuttle to arrive. |
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| Shangdongpu Carpark. The carpark nearest to the trailhead. |
RED TAPE
Before you are allowed to climb Yushan, you need to overcome a couple of administrative hurdles. Thankfully, it is free-of-charge and one can do it totally online with relative painlessness, if you follow the timetable and procedure. Here are the brief instructions and timeline for applying a one-day ascent-descent hike: (For multi-day hikes, it becomes even more complicated, as you also need to apply, ballot for, and pay for your Paiyun lodge accomodation. Check this link for more info if you are doing that)
You need two permits (1) Park Entry Permit 入園許可證 and (2) Mountain Entry Permit 入山許可證. (1) can be applied first, and upon approval of (1), you can then apply for (2).
Choose a desired climb date:
There are 60 vacancies per day, you can check the number of vacancies remaining here. Note: No one-day ascend-descend permit will be awarded from Jan. 1st to Mar. 31st due to the snowing season.
60 to 7 days before your desired climb date:
Go to the Taiwan National Park website to start the permit application process. Choose Yushan National Park, and after agreeing to a pageful of disclaimers and agreements, choose "Standard Application". You will be led to the permit application page proper. Choose under "Route/登山路線", Primary Route: Yushan Trails, Secondary Route: Yushan Trails Day Hike (Tataka - Yushan Trails -Tataka ).
Fill up the rest of the application form which spreads over five tabs. You will be asked to upload some proof of insurance. I uploaded my annual travel insurance document and that seems to work. You will also need to upload a photo of yourself hiking at locations above 3000 meters. After you complete your submission, you will receive an email acknowledgement of your submission.
Fill up the rest of the application form which spreads over five tabs. You will be asked to upload some proof of insurance. I uploaded my annual travel insurance document and that seems to work. You will also need to upload a photo of yourself hiking at locations above 3000 meters. After you complete your submission, you will receive an email acknowledgement of your submission.
Day of the Climb:
You will need to reach Paiyun lodge before 1000 hrs to be allowed to proceed on to the summit. Upon reaching Paiyun lodge, you will need to show the park official stationed there, your Park Entry Permit (入園許可證), Mountain Entry Permit (入山許可證) and your passport.
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